Our evening's worth of flying through to Lima via Panama City left us both a bit groggy and punchy so that when we finally did arrive at our destination close to 2:00am we weren't exactly certain if we actually did see all those casinos lining the main streets of the central business district. These Peruvians seem to really like their gambling. By the time we finally climbed into bed close to 3:00am we weren't sure which continent we were on let alone which city.
We have one very short day to take in some of the ambiance and atmosphere of Peru's capital city and we are doing this on very little sleep. Walking is always the best way to see a place and get a feel for it, so we decided to hoof it. Our hotel is in the San Isidro district, a lovely place with parks, shops, and restaurants but I was determined to see this city above the Pacific from the water's view. We meandered our way down towards Mira Flores, a high energy district that features Larcomar, a high-end mall built right into the cliffs overlooking the ocean. The views of the black sand beaches are simply spectacular from there. Yes...the sand really is black. It is the height of summer here so the beach is packed with sunbathers, surfers, swimmers, and kayaks. It is also a balmy but very humid 88 degrees F so a beach destination for many families complete with muchos helados y agua is most comforting.
I had read about the Parque del Amor or the Park of Love on a travel blog and since we were in the area, we made the trek. It is a small park that sports magnificent panoramic vistas of the ocean and is completely dedicated to the theme of love. The curved mosaic benches and inscriptions had a real Barcelona feel and each sitting space is dedicated to a couple of lovers. We sat and enjoyed the day and we watched as a bride and groom made their way through the winding sculptures in order to pose for their wedding portraits.
Lima is a huge bustling city with a population that is bursting through every seam and crevice. The architecture is a glorious mishmash of Spanish baroque, conquistador, and 1960s schlock. Driving or walking through this city is truly an experiment in abject terror as cars never observe traffic patterns or signals and view pedestrians as mere irritants. Vision Zero? Hell, I think they would be happy with Vision 100. We didn't encounter a single stop sign on our more than 5-hour stroll. The modernity and vibrancy of the downtown core are in sharp contrast with the historic district and gives the traveller a great feeling of walking in the footsteps of kings. I do think it would have been nice to have a second day in Lima. It would have been lovely but other treasures await us.
A few notes.
* My high school and internet Spanish is great for reading things and even for paying for some water on the beach but I am dumbstruck by how very fast people speak. I am convinced that in order to speak it and understand it properly, I would have to fully live in it.
* It is amazing how insecure one can feel without a handle on the language. Watching The Husband emit these blank stares in the Panama City airport when trying to navigate to our connection was grounding. I was able to let our flight attendants know that English was our language of choice but it is still jarring when you are the only one who doesn't understand. Now...apply that lack of confidence to immigrants to any country and how they manage to traverse the terrain. We have become very lazy linguists.
* I was fully prepared for street sellers to try and get me to buy a piece of the moon on a string but the guy who wanted to polish and clean our sneakers was a bit off the beaten track.
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| See. The sand really is black. |
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| Parque Del Amor |
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| The streets of Lima |
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