Jambo Jambo from the North Serengeti in Tanzania.
We arrived late yesterday afternoon after another eventful day on Tinker Toy Airlines. Two more flights in quick succession left me a bit woozy, but I'm still here. If you're new to me and my traumas, or why I am so obsessed with these flights, it has nothing to do with fear of the teeny-tiny airplanes or the heights. I am just trying to get from place to place without losing what's left of my stomach acid. (Trust me. There's no food in there.) These African countries use airplanes the way we might use a Greyhound bus. The countries are simply too vast and the populations too spread out to drive. So, in order to get to where we want to go, I am in a constant state of vertigo. I am not complaining (much), but it is something to think about if you are planning a safari or four.
We made this trek to Tanzania to see the southern migration of the wildebeest, a natural phenomenon that is a splendour to behold. Now there is a sentence I never thought I'd write in my life. Our guide James, a driver so skilled he should be at Daytona, explained that the wildebeest migrate to the four corners of the Serengeti depending on the season. During this southern migration, they are headed south to give birth. They will head east to get it on and west to find greener pastures. They follow a clockwise motion and continue the pattern forever. Climate change has played some havoc with their biological clocks, but what hasn't climate change played havoc with?
These are really stupid animals. I mean, really stupid!! We spent over eleven hours today watching these morons roam back and forth across the plains looking for an acceptable place to cross the river. Can you imagine? There are an estimated 1.5-3 million wildebeest that make their home here in the Serengeti, and every single one of them will make the crossing.
It was some of the best eleven hours I have ever spent. We saw three and a half crossings, and it was a sight to behold. Sometimes they ran, sometimes they walked, and there was even one stampede. The people back at camp told us how incredibly lucky we were. It usually doesn't happen like that. James is da' man!
We arrived back at Ubuntu Bush Camp dirty, exhausted, a bit sunburned, and incredibly excited. In a million years, I could never have imagined a day like today.
A bit about Ubuntu Camp. This is a true migration camp, which means they pull up stakes at the conclusion of the migration and follow the wildebeest down south. It is the most rustic of the safaris we've been on so far, but it is still quite lovely. You really haven't lived until you've taken a bucket shower or slept in mosquito netting. Neither of those are nearly as difficult as they sound, so don't let it dissuade you. It is really worth the effort.
A few odds and ends.
I have learned a lot of new euphemisms for urinating. Out of respect for the culture and the people here, I will refrain from publishing them publicly. If anyone is weirdly curious, I will supply a few offline.
I am a city girl at heart. I like the hustle and bustle and comforts of the twenty-first century. I will not deny it. But I have a deep and unending love for nature in all its forms, and I love learning how different cultures and communities live their lives with respect for their surroundings. The best way to educate oneself is to travel. The best way to learn respect for people is to live in their spaces and ask them questions. In spite of some of my difficulties, I wouldn't give up travelling for anything.
Is it really possible to become blasé about seeing animals multiple times? I can't believe we are in the "Eh...another impala" phase. Never become complacent. There is always something new.

























