"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness"~ Mark Twain (The Innocents Abroad, 1869).
We have seen so many wondrous sights on this trip. There is absolutely nothing that can equal watching a baby elephant nurse in its natural habitat. Tens of thousands of wildebeests migrating as they are supposed to do. Two warthogs fighting for territory were silly and thrilling. The fallen majesty of a lame lion, formerly the leader of the pride, being led across the savannah by a young lioness so that he could join his newly anointed brother. All of it inspired amazement. All of it is a marvel.
But as much as I have adored every new adventure, I have enjoyed talking with the people who have facilitated our trip just as much. They hail from various parts of this continent, most of them young people, who have found their way to the hospitality industry through different pathways.
There is Mercy, quiet, dignified, curious, and soft-spoken. Mercy was obviously a gifted student from a small village, whose teachers recognized her intelligence and sharp mind. At a fairly young age, Mercy left for boarding school and then to university. Her family and her village scraped together whatever funds necessary for her to continue her studies. It was a real hardship for them. They would give her the money, and then tell her exactly how much she could spend per day. There were no frivolous expenditures. It was all counted down to the last penny. Even now, I can see her gratitude and how she returns to her village several times a year so that she can repay them all in some small way. Her sister jibes her about "being from the city," but Mercy carries her family and her village deep within herself.
There is Precious. Precious was our guide in the Maasai Mara. She prides herself on being one of only two women to make the grade to be a guide there. Precious told us her harrowing story one evening as we were stalking a leopard. Her grandfather had promised her to an eighty-year-old man in their village when she was just thirteen years old. He expected her to marry him, be genitally mutilated, and have her bottom two teeth removed. Precious was having none of it. She ran away to the nearest large town and was taken in by a youth shelter. There she went to school for the first time, learned how to read and speak English, and entered into training as a guide. She started off as a housekeeper and worked her way up. Today, at the tender age of twenty-five, she is the married mother of two young boys. We met her husband, who works at a rival tour company. She is fiercely proud of all of her men, but she isn't done yet. She is now studying photography. Her optimism is infectious.
We met James in the Serengeti. James is an only child who was raised by generations of women after his father left the family. His wife and children still live with his mother and great-grandmother--who is still alive at one hundred and seventeen years old. She outlived her own daughter, who died last year at ninety-five. James is obsessed with the migration of the wildebeest. I have never seen such passion for something this bizarre. He pumped the accelerator on his jeep deep into the floorboards to catch the crossings like he was chasing a bat. James had the best smile I have ever seen, and when he talked about his two young children, he positively beamed. He has now been certified as a chef, and he can't wait to share his creative side with guests. He took a lot of ribbing from his friends about cooking being women's work, but James is an independent soul. He will be just fine.
We met Naomi and Richard as they gave us a tour of their village, Mto wa Mbu. It translates to River of Mosquitos, although we have been extremely fortunate not to have encounter a single insect. These two young (and I do mean young) people were so proud to show us their home. We saw the banana farms, the markets, and my personal favourite, an elementary school. The little ones there absolutely swarmed us. I was given high-fives, fist bumps, handshakes and more than one tiny peck on the hand. I loved these kids. Towards the end of our time with these teens, they took us to a small hut and described the courting rituals of their tribe. Let's just say it involves banana beer and a communal drink. They were so curious about how young people meet back home. When we told them that there is very little arrangement with marriage in Canada, Naomi looked at us and said, "I think I might like Canada." Richard was a bit more skeptical, but both of them were like sponges. They wanted every bit of information we were willing to offer.
It is important to remember that we are guests here. We do not get to tell any of them that the way they were raised is wrong or repugnant. We share stories, and they do the same. We move past our own prejudices and bigotry when we try to understand where people come from. We may not agree with all of it, but it is their world, and we are just visiting. Be curious.
A few tidbits.
1. The roads here are so bad they don't deserve the designation of road. They will hereby be known as Elephant Paths. Driving on them is a journey and a half. Imagine sitting atop a paint mixture during a 7.1 earthquake. Now imagine doing that for sometimes up to eleven hours a day. It makes for some interesting bumps and bruises in some interesting places.
2. We spent the last two days at the Ngorongoro Crater. A volcanic eruption over a million years ago created this fascinating ecosystem. The almost entirely round caldera is home to almost 30,000 individual animals and thousands of plant species. There are four distinct climate areas within the crater. There is a savannah, a forest, a marshland, and a desert. The temperatures and winds can change depending on which area you find yourself. It is kind of fascinating. We also went to Olduvai Gorge. This is the area of Tanzania where Louis and Mary Leakey excavated. The museum and fossils of prehistoric man are interesting, but my ass was screaming on the ride back.
3. We rise on the animals' schedules. They don't give a shit about ours. I have seen far too many 6:00am rises. I might sleep for a week when we return.
A few more of my photos from the iPhone. The Husband's are better, but he is stubborn about posting until he is satisfied.





























