Pride in One's Heritage

There is a wonderful tranquillity that seems to come over people when they inherently understand that they aren't competing with anybody. They find comfort in their own skin that makes the rest of those around them yearn for whatever potion they have consumed.

I am finding the same serenity in the Andean people. They have a fundamental grasp on their heritage and know that they owe apologies to nobody nor do they feel the need to boast about being the greatest or the most exceptional because they have literally outlived all of the world's mega-powers. Our Andean guide, Ernesto, is exceptionally proud of his Wari people but he is always quite deferential to the Incans who came to this land thousands of years after his ancestors settled in these mountains. He is quick to point out the accomplishments of his and other pre-Incan tribes but he is also very happy to claim the Incan progression and additions as his own as a proud Peruvian. That was very apparent today as he led us through and up (way up!) the archaeological marvel that is the fortress and temple at Ollantaytambo. Various groups of Andeans have been adding to this incredible site for centuries and the Incas were the last of these nations. The skill and engineering knowledge pre-dates anything the Egyptians or the Romans could have imagined as the Incas merely built on the work of the Andean tribes from thousands of years before.

There is also a tremendous peace of mind in knowing that the work you do is based, not only in the history and teachings of one's family but also in the glorification of the natural world. The farmers here are intent on doing their work in a fashion that honours their ancestors. There are no tractors or mechanical devices used in the fields and instead, we've seen oxen or entire families with handtools. Honestly. Pickaxes and hoes. There is a philosophy of reciprocity that is understood amongst neighbours, so it isn't at all unusual to see groups of friends work one plot of land before moving on to another. The excitement they have when the rain finally comes is something to behold.

Finally, there is pride in the work. The weavers and artisans of the area are true craftspeople who use only the implements and supplies that nature offers. The intricate colours and patterns of the cloth are made from the wools of the native llamas and alpacas and are expertly cleaned, dyed, and woven with loving hands. An insect found in the local cacti or leaves or berries provide all the colouring necessary and they are truly works of art.

As I am typing this post, there is a light rain falling outside my window and a magnificent rainbow has presented itself over the mountains. I'm choosing to see it as a sign that we have honoured our Andean brothers and sisters today by acknowledging the depth of their contributions and by taking the time to understand them a bit better. I hope that no government, business, corporation, or selfish tyrant ever disrupts the beauty these people have built for almost 4500 years.

A few notes.

* The headaches from the change of altitude have disappeared. I am really into this coca tea and the muña is delicious.

*The weather here can change on a dime. I was sweating, sunburned, and freezing all in the space of a few hours.

*We were treated to a traditional Peruvian lunch called a Pata Manca. Think of it as a Peruvian luau. The food is all cooked in a pit in the ground covered by hot rocks. The vegetables and meat were done with local spices by a very proud chef who was excited to share the local delicacy...guinea pig. I'm serious. These creatures are cooked on a spit and weigh in between three and four pounds. I settled for the vegetarian option.

A local trying to help the tourists

We climbed the whole thing

So beautiful