Almost Wordless Wednesday

Today's image comes from our trip this past summer to the Baltics. While in Oslo, we had a chance to visit the Nobel Peace Centre. It is a showcase for the Nobel Peace Prize, the work of Alfred Nobel, and it offers an interactive display of all of the Peace Prize laureates. From their mission statement:

The Centre also acts as an arena for debate about important social issues. Through permanent and temporary exhibitions, guided tours, various events and family activities, we wish to foster reflection and engagement on topics related to war, peace and conflict resolution. 

The Hall of Laureates left me breathless and filled with emotion. While there has been controversy over the years as to some of those honoured, most have been incredibly deserving. In this time of global turmoil, the Centre serves as a living reminder to what can be achieved through communication, understanding, and peaceful coexistence.

Summertime in Sweden

Here's a puzzle for you.

What should one NEVER take when touring the Ice Bar in Stockholm?

The answer will follow later.

We awoke with the sun this morning, at approximately 4:00am, because we knew that the captain had decided to take us through the Swedish archipelago; a three hour scenic voyage of thousands of islands and summer homes used by vacationing Stockholmers who, much like Canadians, savour summer with great abandon. It was absolutely worth forgoing sleep.

Think Muskoka in July. Hundreds of cottages dotting the sea and its inlets, with granite formations and beaches along the shores. 

I have decided that I love Sweden. I could actually vacation here for an extended period of time. Yes, of course it would have to be in the summer, (the average winter temperature here in Southern Stockholm is a balmy -15C) but this is a city and a country that is very much in keeping with my politics, my lifestyle choices, and my value structure. I love that they have a national holiday to memorialize Alfred Nobel, a man who when faced with the notion of a posthumous record of death and destruction, dedicated his life and personal fortune to peaceful endeavours. This is a country that provides free tuition for university students and actually gives them a living allowance. This is a country that is unabashedly neutral when it comes to world conflict, yet still managed to save almost every single Jew fleeing Denmark during WW II. This is country ruled by a constitutional monarchy with a socialist Green Party forming its government. This is a country that values recreation as much as work, benefits for all of its citizens, and creativity and innovation. There is even a thriving Jewish community here is Stockholm. Yes, I think that I could be very happy in Sweden....during the summer.

Following some wandering through the medieval of Gamla Stan, the oldest of Stockholms fourteen island communities, we decided to do something really "touristy". We went to the famous ice bar. Located inside a posh hotel, the bar is completely constructed of Swedish ice trucked down from the north, and is kept at a constant temperature of -7C so as to prevent melting. They give you these goofy looking parkas and gloves and serve you Kool-Aid with a splash of Absolute. Fun? Yes. But....

And now the answer to my riddle.

What should one never take when visiting the Ice Bar?

A screaming 13 month old!!

Yes there were babies on this tour and one in particular was unhappy from the start. Who in their right mind takes a baby to a bar? The screeches from this child could have thawed Greenland. He wailed when they parkaed him. He wailed when they tried to force the fruit juice down his gullet. He wailed when they tried to take his picture, he wailed some more when they finally disrobed him, and he wailed on the bus all the way back to the ship. We were all ready to smack his parents with blocks of ice. The arrogant stupidity of some people.

We tried to make the best of it. 

Yes I drank the concoction. There was hardly enough vodka in there to drown a fly.

This was our final port. Tomorrow is a sea day and then back to Copenhagen. We have loved visiting this unique part of the world. We have been so very fortunate with weather and our traveling companions are second to none. 

Next year in.....?

Helsinki Has Gone Squirrelly

I have a huge problem with Helsinki!

This jewel by the sea has everything that a twenty-first century urbanite could wish for in a world capital. Culture, technology, beauty, multiculturalism, history, shops, cafes....Helsinki is teeming with all of it. 

Design?

It is an eclectic mix of nineteenth century St. Petersburg and modern European. The Temppeliaukio Church is actually built into a massive block of naturaI granite. I thought it would have made a magnificent synagogue..a symbiotic balance of spirituality combined with 

the beauty of nature. Helsinki was awarded World Design Capital of 2012. It is the perfect blend of old and new. 

Innovation?

This is the country that gave us both Nokia phones and Angry Birds. Need I say more?

Climate?

While I might have a problem with the frigid and extremely dark winters, (isn't that what Florida is supposed to remedy?) I could simply revel in the summers. While Northern Finland is known as "the land of the midnight sun" (the sun is visible for a full 24 hours) Helsinki has to make due with about twenty hours of daylight at this time of year. Now that's what I call civilized.

Leisure?

Hockey is huge here, even in the summer, and the Finns are an active and recreational people, no matter the climate. 

The Husband remarked that it should be required for every elected city official from Toronto to tour some of these Northern European centres to discover the secrets to becoming world class, that elusive designation that we Torontonians are always striving for but can't seem to achieve. Integrated transportation, pedestrian malls, street craft markets, varied street food...all have helped to make Helsinki a desired world class destination.

So what's my problem, you may ask?

These sweet, loving, smart, peaceful people have gone and designated the f***ing squirrel as their city's symbol. The horror!! And with that little nugget of knowledge, my impressions of Finland's capital drastically diminished. 

But...you've got to love a city that has almost as many saunas as people. 

National Pride

How do we define national pride?

We certainly feel it when our flag is raised (especially in triumph) or when the anthem is played. We kvell at gold medal ceremonies, and we weep with military families when a local hero is returned home to rest. But, I have been wondering quite a bit this week, whether those outward expressions, most certainly appropriate, can be seen as the most accurate measure of our national pride or should we attempt to delve deeper. 

Certainly here in St. Petersburg, Russian pride is at the core of every one of its citizens, and it is audible in their voices as they excitedly show off their national treasures and talk of their collective survival. The cultural heart of Russia has been rebuilt from the ground up following the devastation of the Nazi siege, followed immediately by decades of Soviet indifference. The history and legends of the Romanoffs and their exploits are told with accented flair and some small measure of the story-teller's embellishment, but it is all in the name of preserving their national heritage. 

As we wound our way through the streets, canals, palaces, and monuments of the city that Peter the Great built as his legacy and his heirs perpetuated, we became very aware that not only were we viewing some of the most opulent and ostentatious architectural marvels in the world, but that we were truly in the presence of artistic genius. The stunning and whimsical gardens and fountains of the Peterhof Palace; the gilded beauty of the Catherine Palace; the ornate tombs that mark the resting places of the Tsars at The Peter and Paul Fortress; and the unbelievable collection of European masters assembled by Catherine the Great and now on display at the Hermitage Museum; all serve to unite this community. These are a direct and straightforward people. This is the best that the world has to offer and they want visitors to leave with that message. 

I must say that I am rarely enamoured by churches, (Sorry, but it just isn't in my DNA.) but the story of The Church of The Spilled Blood captured my attention. It is built on the site of the 1881 assassination of Alexander II. Alexander was beloved by the people because of his reformations, particularly the abolition of serfdom. When he was murdered, the peasants collected funds to build the church. No amount was too small. The meticulous ceramic mosaics and dramatic exterior are testament to the will of the people.

The will of the Russian people to carefully restore the beauty of their history and share it with the world is one of the greatest displays of national pride that I can think of. The financial commitment and collective determination has been nothing short of miraculous. This city was truly on the brink of extinction some seventy years ago, but today it is a crown jewel of culture and a stunning example of Russian pride. 

Medieval Meets Modernity

Happy Canada Day from Tallinn Estonia!

I must admit that when I first saw Tallinn on the itinerary for this trip, I viewed it as an intermediate locale that seemed perfectly situated on the Baltic Sea in order to break up the voyage to St. Petersburg. To say that I was entirely wrong is an understatement. Tallinn is truly a great surprise. The oldest capital city in Northern Europe, Talłinn has managed to straddle the line between old and new, combining its gothic medieval architecture in Old Town, with a vibrant twenty-first century culture complete with vibrant cafes, boutiques, and a thriving high tech industry. Estonia has been kicked around throughout history, including being annexed by the former Soviet Union, but these are a proud people and when the Soviet Union crumbled, Estonia was the first country to declare its independence in 1991. Walking through the narrow paths and cobblestone streets, untouched for centuries, you get a real sense of how Tallinn has remained true to itself since its founding in 1154.

Let's play some Tallinn Trivia and see how much you all know about this beautiful country of Estonia.

Ok, Alex. I'll take Tallinn industry for $500

What major online communication phenomenon was developed in Estonia?

If you answered Skype, then give yourself the money. And if you said that one of the chief developers was named Jean Tallinn, then proceed to the Daily Double. Tallinn is also a completely free WiFi city. How freaking civilized is that?

How about Religuous Symbols for $200, Alex?

What Christmas symbol had its first public showing in Tallinn?

If you answered the Christmas tree, then Alex is very proud of you. The very first public Christmas tree was displayed in the Tallinn Old Town Hall Square in 1441. Apparently the locals danced around the foliage and then promptly burned it to the ground.

Let's go with Botany for $100.

What gin making berry is native to the region?

If you didn't get juniper berry then smack yourself upside the head. Shame on you!! Juniper berries were thought to cure a variety of diseases in medieval times. When we visited the world's oldest apothecary in Old Town, we saw dried berries still on display in what is still a working pharmacy. If you look very carefully, you will notice that each one grows with a tiny cross on top. Healers in the Middle Ages were convinced that they kept the devil at bay. The Husband just wanted to sample the local spirit.

One more...

Food and drink for $300.

What confection had its beginnings in Estonia?

Marzipan! Although I loathe the stuff, it is a favourite of Twin Son's Better Half and it was fascinating to look at the artistic designs in the sweet shop windows. 

A City of Contradictions

The Husband was able to succinctly sum up my very conflicted emotions about Berlin. He described it as a city that has lived its entire history at the political extremes and is now attempting to reconcile its past with its present and future. Traces of imperialism, monarchies, facism, communism, and democratic capitalism are all bubbling just beneath the surface here at every rebuilt building and every reimagined monument or memorial. And the city is teeming with both. There was very little left untouched by the Berlin bombings at the end of World War II. Ninety percent of all buildings in the city were destroyed, and as such there has been a reconstruction and overhaul that is a strange mix of both old and new. To their credit, the Germans are neither hiding from nor whitewashing their horrific history, and are at the very least, making every effort to honour and memorialize the vicitms of both the Shoah and of the Soviet regime. A once divided city is now whole, but there are shadows of the past that haunt this place and are forever inescapable. 

I felt tremendous pain and emotional upheaval today. I instinctively understood that in every place I walked, Nazis marched. At every government building or library that we visited, I recalled visuals of black and white newsreels of Hitler giving speeches or Nazi rallies. It is terribly unfair to the modern day Berliners who are really attempting to be exemplary world citizens, but it is a part of my psyche that I will never be able to fully discard. 

So, while we visited the square in front of the Law School at Humboldt University, all I could see was the poignant memorial to the Berlin book burnings of 1933. At the refurbished Olympic stadium, still remarkably intact since 1936, I saw Jesse Owens quietly dispelling the myth of the "master race". On Museum Island, where culture has overtaken politics, I was starkly reminded of Hitler's rallies on the steps of one of the rebuilt facades. At the Reichstadt, the seat of German democracy, my mind replayed photographic images of the swastika hanging from its columns. I could not abandon my history and heritage for even one moment of today's tour. 

But, it was at the Holocaust Memorial, aptly named The Monument to the Murdered Jews of Europe, where I was struck mute. I silently wept as we made our way through the columns of 2711 individually-sized granite blocks. The stones are uninscribed and stark, almost like nameless headstones. As we walked through, there were times when the ground dropped and sloped and almost caused me to lose balance. We felt enveloped and surrounded on all sides, with no means of escape. I was emotionally spent after just five minutes and was relieved not to have to visit the museum below. I honestly do not believe I could have handled it. 

This is a new Berlin; fresh, vital, modern, and free. But, for those of us who are charged with and emotionally burdened by "never forgetting", it might take a little longer to see it that way. 

Scandinavian Quick Hits

Here are some quick hits gleaned from our first few days in the Nordic countries.

* They may seem like peace-loving and tolerant people today, but their history belies their current status. These countries were constantly at war with one another and there still exists a fierce rivalry. Our guide today in Gothenburg was quick to point out all of the times that the Danes invaded Sweden and destroyed their city over the past four centuries, making special note of their use of fire. I am now firmly convinced that the Danes have a pyromaniacal gene that seems to follow them from palace burnings to maraudings.

* Nobody seems to want Norway. It was first owned by the Danes, but as a condition of surrender during one of their many battles, it was handed over to the Swedes. The poor Norwegians seemed to ping pong back and forth throughout he centuries until finally declaring their own independence. They did get the last laugh, though. Norway is the only Scandanavian country with off-shore oil, making them independently wealthy. The Swedes, stupidly forgoing the Norwegian offer to share, had to settle for Volvo. (Headquartered in Gothenburg.)

* The Swedes take tremendous pride in their heritage, so much so that even the inside of their churches are designed in a style known here as Romantic Nationalism. We saw one today in Gothenburg called Masthuggs that was designed around a Viking ship on the ceiling.

* These are self-deprecating and funny people. The weather here today was cruddy, but we were told by our guide that Sweden always tries to be accommodating to her visitors by giving them an authentic Swedish experience. It is also amazing that the skies cleared for the one hour we were on a Paddan canal tour and the sun shone brightly. (Paddan is a Swedish word meaning toad. These open air boats travel leisurely through the canals and gave us so marvellous views of the old-world European charm of the city.) That's because, according to our guide Ingela, we were only allotted a single hour of sunshine and that was the hour chosen. Her comedy was very much in tune with our Canadian sense of humour.

* The people of Gothenburg worship fish. I'm not kidding. They actually say that. Worship. The fishing industry here dates back centuries and is still quite prominent today. They have even named their central fish market the Fish Church and have designed the building to resemble a cathedral. In my next life, I think that I might like to worship bees. They are communal creatures who all work together for the good of the collective. The bee is essential to the entire food chain. It seems a much more impressive creature to worship rather than a fish, but this is Sweden.

* Everything here is based on stories or legends. It's difficult to know where the truth ends and the fiction begins. An example: Looking out over the harbour in Gothenburg, stands a sculpture known as the Sailor's Wife. She was erected as a memorial to the seven-hundred sailors who perished during the First World War. It is said that she is looking out toward the ocean waiting for her beloved to return. But...she isn't really facing the ocean, but rather the island on the other side of the canal. Gossips insist that she is actually pining for her lover who lived on the island, rather than for her husband. See? Legends.

* We watched the sunset last evening at 10:45. That was magical.

A leisurely afternoon aboard ship while we prepare for a huge day ahead tomorrow in Berlin.

Four Jews in Search of A Viking

It is very disconcerting to awaken at 4:00am to blazing daylight. It can be extremely unnerving for those individuals who need complete darkness by which to sleep, but for those of us who embarks the summer sunlight, it is truly life-affirming.

That was our first impression of Oslo as we sailed into port this morning through the Oslofjord. Welcome to the homeland of Edvard Munch, Henrik Ibsen, Gustav Vigeland, Thor the God of Thunder, Thor Heyerdahl, and Roald Amundsen. If you need a refresher on any of the aforementioned, Google is a wonderful invention. We had a jammed packed day planned, so advance preparation was important. Once again, I am thankful to Odin (see what I did there?) that we have chosen to travel with such amazing people. Twin Son's Better Half had this place totally scoped out before I even started my morning cuppa. 

We headed to retrieve our Oslo passes which not only allowed us entrance to all museums and displays, but access to all public transportation services, buses, trams, and ferries, throughout the city. It continually amazes me whenever I travel, how truly dysfunctional my hometown is when it comes to transportation and infrastructure. The world is absolutely passing us by. 

We made our way down the the main thoroughfare, Karl Johansgate where Pride celebrations are in full swing. The entire city is festooned in rainbow. It seems all the more appropriate given yesterday's long overdue decision in the U.S. We headed directly to the National Museum so that I could view Munch's iconic piece "The Scream". This extraordinarily disturbing painting has finally be encased behind glass so that the Norwegians can protect their national treasure from yet another theft. I could have spent hours viewing Munch's work. His impressionistic stylings are breathtaking and viewed alongside Van Gogh, Matisse, and others made my morning.

In order to save our aching feet, we hopped a tram headed to Frogland Park where to life's work of Gustav Vigeland is on full display. Covering more than eighty acres and composed of over two hundred bronze and granite castings, the Vigeland sculpture installation needs to be seen to be fully appreciated. The raw human emotions and conditions are beyond impressive, and the detail is stunning.

But it is his imagined connection to a Viking past that had Twin Son all a twitter. Based on some ridiculous notion of a posting of his family name on some log somewhere, has him convinced that his Polish Jewish ancestors had a hint a Viking blood. And so it came to pass that four Jews bused across Oslo to the Viking Ship Museum to view the four massive vessels, circa 800 AD, that have been excavated from all points around the country. Personally, I think he's nuts. There is no possible way that Jews built these magnificent ships. We simply are devoid of the handyman gene. We would have been far more likely to have hired out the work. 

A quick ferry ride (Yay Dawn!! No puking!) back to port where we were fortunate enough to have time to peruse the Nobel Peace Prize museum. Vigeland actually designed the medal which is on display here, but it was the exhibit in tribute of Malala, this year's co-winner, that left me breathless and close to tears. It really does make me wonder how I have been spending my life.

We have been walking our feet off. My FitBit is screaming at me. See you tomorrow from Gothenburg.

Wonderful Wonderful Copenhagen

I love Danny Kaye movies. He was a truly gifted actor/musician/comedian. Every movie he made just oozed with charm and fun. In his completely Hollywood-ized "biography" of Hans Christian Andersen, he croons a bit of a love letter to the city of Copenhagen. He sings:

Wonderful wonderful Copenhagen

Salty old queen of the sea

Once I sailed away

But I'm home today

Singing Copenhagen

Wonderful wonderful

Copenhagen for me

I agree with Mr. Kaye. There is a very homey feel to this city by the sea. It is busy and bustling, yet it is self-deprecating and communal. Yesterday, we chatted with a young waiter who attends college in Upstate New York. He told us that his parents couldn't understand why he would want to pay a fortune for his education when he could be getting it for free here at home. Free!!  

As we hopped onto a commuter train, we noticed that there was a car strictly for those with bikes equipped with appropriate racks to secure them. The bike lanes here are totally separated from both cars and pedestrians. This is a city  that has learned to compromise and accommodate all. I can almost hear Torontonian's heads exploding. 

During our canal tour yesterday, our guide Marie pointed out Denmark's contribution to the war in Iraq. It was a lonely submarine now sitting in dry dock in the harbour because it broke down during its mission. It now functions as a naval museum. The Danes seem just fine with this bit of comedy. There is no sense of lost national pride at all.

The people here are determined to enjoy whatever summer has to offer, even if the weather refuses to cooperate. On a chilly evening at Tivoli Gardens, the outdoor cafes and patios are equipped with furs and blankets for patrons to bundle up and/or snuggle up, and outdoor heaters are ignited so that the warmth is felt by all. The season is simply too short not to be savoured, and savour it they do!

Thank you for a wonderful few days, Madam. Mr. Kaye was correct. Copenhagen. She is a friendly old girl of a town.

The Day Before The Journey

Yesterday The Husband told me, in passing, that he thought he needed a butler.

And just as quickly, I responded (with my typical sardonic wit) that he married one.

His fascinating observation was mentioned in the context of our labourious packing exercise for our latest adventure. While he loves to travel and adores the exciting experience of visiting the world's hotspots, the actual preparation for the event seems to flummox this incredibly knowledgeable and monumentally brilliant man. If entirely left to his own devices, he might actually wear the same t-shirt and jeans for the entire two-week period. And while that might suffice for a teenager who is summer backpacking through European hostels, it really doesn't work for a slightly middle-aged man with various social needs at various locations with various climates dictating various clothing demands. 

Now...don't get me wrong. I am all for packing light. I loathe excess baggage, or more explicitly the excess weight it forces us to shlep. So when I say that I have got this preparation thing almost down to a science, I am not exaggerating. 

All of our belongings anally packaged in Ziploc Bags!

What I think The Husband is trying to express through his own procrastination is the fact that while travelling is exciting and adventurous, the preparations needed to facilitate the excursions are far less so. As a matter of fact, in recent years they have become downright onerous. Everything from added airline fees, to baggage weight restrictions, to fighting for overhead compartment space, to security measures that limit my Purell and choice of footwear, to middle seats, to angry passengers and pissed off crew, to the real consideration of whether or not I need to scarf down a heartburn-inducing bagel before I board, can all conspire to make for a truly miserable kick-off of what should be the latest trip of a lifetime. What The Husband has failed to grasp is that my overly compulsive preparations (see the above photo), along with a few luxurious perks provided by American Express Platinum, will serve to alleviate some of the stress that accompanies all of the afore mentioned. 

We make a great team, The Husband and I. I worry about the details and he doesn't. I make lists and he doesn't. I wake up in the middle of the night concerned that I have forgotten something important and he....doesn't. Oh how I wish I had his cool and calm demeanour. How I wish that I could see the forest for the trees. How I wish that I could let the water roll off the duck's back. 

How I wish that he would pack for himself. 

The Husband has a wonderful philosophy about travel. He believes that as long as you have your passport and a credit card you can get anything and go anywhere. He is absolutely correct. And I believe that next time, he should use that credit card to actually hire his butler.

***Check back daily for my travel blogs for the next couple of weeks. The Husband and I really do make a great team. My words and his incredible photography.