The Sweet Smells and Sounds of Sevilla

It is amazing how memory works. The five senses become engaged and they evoke long-lost remembrances.

I know that when I think of Sevilla, I will remember the smell of sour orange. It is an unbelievable scent that is prevalent everywhere in this lovely and vibrant city. The sour orange trees are in bloom right now, and the large, ripe fruit is hanging low for the picking. I managed to get Twin Son to pluck one for me. The fruit is almost inedible. When used as essences, extracts, perfumes, or oils, however, it is just delightful. We found a small shop that specializes in this most original of local ingredients, and I found myself shelling out for an almond, fig and sour orange loaf and some cookies. They are gone now; happily consumed with an afternoon cerveza, but worth the expenditure.

I find myself sniffing the wind here. The oranges mix easily with the scents of olives, lavender, and almonds. The pomegranates are just starting to flower and the local panaderias combine all of the local fruits with pungent spices like cinnamon and cardamon. I love the bouquets of Sevilla.

This city is alive and dynamic. Spring has definitely sprung in Andalusia. The patios are teeming with patrons and there is music everywhere. Flowers decorate the window boxes and there is an ease with which people move and gather. The narrow streets of el barrio de Santa Cruz are flooded with shoppers and tourists. The weather is warm and everyone wants to mingle and chat. 

We did manage to make our way over the el Real Alcazar and la Catedral de Sevilla because we are tourists and that's what tourists do. The gardens are magnificent, but the older I get and the more I travel the world, the less interested I am in viewing churches. The palace was fascinating but the cathedral left me cold. I realize that I am not one of the faithful who needs to make a pilgrimage to every holy site, but I am a bit tired of the opulence and extravagance. I apologize to any reader I might offend with these words, but understanding these places is above my pay grade.

My favourite part of today was just sitting on the roof of our hotel and enjoying the sunshine. This place needs to be seen to be believed. We are staying at Las Casas de la Judería in el barrio de Santa Cruz. The hotel is comprised of 27 houses, all connected by patios, walkways, and an underground passage. The area is a the old Jewish quarter and the hotel sits next to the Iglesia de Santa Maria Blanca. The church is undergoing restorations and just three days ago they announced that they had found evidence of a synagogue in its walls. The first time we walked to our room, I told The Husband that he should attach an Air Tag to me because I was certain I was doomed to roam the corridors for eternity. I had The Husband film our walk from the lobby to our room. It had to be experienced to be believed. Click the link. You won't be sorry. I highly recommend you consider this hotel if you find yourself in Sevilla.

A few random thoughts:

• I feel like I want to give tourist lessons to people visiting these sites. Too many folks are walking with their heads down in their phones and they are missing everything. I also cannot understand taking selfies everywhere. You are here for a short time. Try and enjoy the moment.
• I am trying to avoid the bullfighting museums and arenas but the culture here is pervasive. We may end up in one of those in Ronda.
• We are ditching the churches for a few days and headed for the countryside. I am psyched.
• We climbed the bell tower at La Catedral. Thirty-four stories. At an approximately ten-percent grade. In an enclosed space. Workout for the day, complete.
• I like the way people eat here. Heavier meals in the afternoon and light dinners. We might carry on the tradition back home.
• Christopher Columbus is entombed in La Catedral. His remains were exhumed, tested, and confirmed. If you find this fascinating, you are a better person than am I.

Photos for yesterday and today are exclusively from The Husband.

Iglesia de Maria Blanca (Finding the synagogue behind the walls.)

Real Alcazar gardens

He thought he was el Rey.

The dreaded bell tower

With the bells.

The pipe organ at La Catedral