Saturday, 19 May 2018

We've Come To The North, Jon Snow

As a child of the seventies, if you would have told me that one day I would visit Belfast in Northern Ireland, I would have laughed and said,

“Sure…and maybe after that, I’ll go and tour Beirut.”

When I was a kid, Belfast was in the news every night and for all the wrong reasons. The “recent conflict”, as the locals here term it, brought nothing but sadness and horror on an almost hourly basis. Since the uneasy truce, that still thankfully exists between the angry Protestant and Catholic neighbours, Belfast has seen its fortunes rebound and the tourist industry boom. The filming of HBO’s Game of Thrones in areas all over Northern Ireland has brought an economic lift to the entire country. There are still reminders that the “recent conflict” is still simmering. An ugly wall that divides neighbourhoods is still intact and the gates close every evening at 7:00pm. The Sinn Fein has a headquarters in the same area as the infamous Gaol that once held the hunger strikers and IRA terrorists. There is a life-sized mural of Bobby Sands on the side of a building and a memorial at the Bayardo Bar, the site of one of the most infamous bombings which were dramatized in the movie In the Name of My Father. But all of that somehow disappears into memories as the quaintness of the Belfast streets and the magnificence of the surrounding landscapes comes closer to the fore.

As we travelled the winding country roads outside of the city, the striking greenery buttressed up against the blueness of the ocean almost defied descriptions. Today was the day of natural wonder and the weather and the sites did not disappoint. I had seen photographs and videos of The Giant’s Causeway but they simply cannot do it justice. A strange coming together of volcanic eruptions and rock formations, the Causeway is a simply breathtaking experience. We would have been happy to stay all day. We spent our time hiking around

and up the basalt stones and stood at the top of the crests admiring the vistas. I said a few thanks to my exercise regime as we climbed because frankly, even though it can be seen without too much physical exertion, it cannot be experienced without at least some. I cannot recommend this visit highly enough. If you find yourself in the north, you absolutely must make a trip to The Giant’s Causeway.

We headed a bit further up the coast to Carrick-a-Reede which offers some of the most stunning and awe-inspiring views available in Northern Ireland. Once again, we hiked. This time we crossed a small and very narrow rope bridge in order to scale the rocks to the top of a cliff overlooking the North Atlantic. The Husband and I sat for a few minutes on a grassy knoll breathing in the sea air, the spring wildflowers, and the warm grass. There was a spiritual moment as surely God was in this place.

The drive back to Belfast was along the Coastal Road. Imagine the Pacific Coast Highway out in California but quainter and more rustic. Lobstermen and salmon fishermen were everywhere and the summer homes that line the ocean are just starting to show signs of life. The small villages that dot the Coastal Road are sleepy but full of activity. Spring has certainly sprung here in the north and they are embracing every day of fine weather as a blessing.

It was surprising to discover the wonders that exist in Northern Ireland. The Belfast of my youthful memories still quietly simmers under the surface for some of the citizens but mostly they want to show off their home. That wall is an embarrassment to most people here. They are far more anxious to discuss Game of Thrones and the magical natural beauty in which they live.

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